INTRODUCTION
Most people have never heard of the Verde River in Northern Arizona. Beginning southwest of Flagstaff, the Verde flows south and merges with the Salt River just east of Phoenix. The boating season for rafts is very short and in some years is non-existent. Rafting is only possible at peak runoff when the river overflows its banks and cascades through trees and brush. The flow must be at least 500 cfs to raft the Verde and it can be quite challenging. However, canoes or small inflatables can float the river at much lower flows. If you are willing to push and drag your boat over shallow areas, it is possible to run the Verde at flows as low as 150 cfs.

The river contains about 24 rapids, divided between class 2's and 3's with one class 4 that requires a portage. They are described very well on the river map. At low flows, the rapids are not intimidating and willingness to get out of the boat to push off rocks is more important than technical river running skills.

THE FLOAT
In late February 2007, Dave Jaquette and I drive from Los Angeles to meet Armando Menocal at Horseshoe Reservoir, just north of Phoenix. This will be our take-out for our 9-day, 8-night float down the Verde. Leaving a car, we drive through the town of Carefree and after camping in route, arrive in the town of Camp Verde on Monday, February 26. The driving distance between the take-out and put-in is about 100 miles. Armando and I are paddling a 14-foot SOAR inflatable canoe http://www.soar1.com/about.htm while Dave is using an NRS inflatable kayak. Expecting cold temperatures, we have lots of warm clothing and neoprene for the river. We also have food for 9 days, Black Box wine, a firepan, a toilet system, and other comforts for the trip. Everything fits but we are heavier than we would like for a float on a shallow river. The water level is slightly under 200 cfs.

Day 1
After stopping at the Verde Ranger Station, we park across the street at the White River Picnic Area. It is only about a 100-yard carry to the river. By 11 a.m. we are ready to go. It is nice to have an easy paddle the first day to get used to the river. The hard rapids start tomorrow. West Clear Creek joins the Verde about 6 miles from our start. Much of the land along this initial stretch of the river is private and contains many houses and ranches. Numerous blue herons, ducks, other birds, and river otters are visible. We camp 10 miles later, just below Beasley Flats. Many parties start at Beasley Flats but we did the non-technical upper section as well.

Day 2
We pack the boats more carefully since the biggest rapids of the trip will occur today. Our first class 2 rapid, Off the Wall, is no problem. However, the next 2 rapids, Pre Falls and Verde Falls, require a short portage. Verde Falls includes a 5-foot drop, which is way out of our league. This is our only portage but some other rapids require us to line our boats past them or to push them over rocks at the entrance to line up for the difficult portion of the rapid. Dave wraps his kayak on a rock. He stands on the rock and pushes but ends up falling into the river as his boat comes free. The water is cold! Palisade Rapid requires us to push the SOAR right to the edge of a drop. As the water catches the boat, I barely get in while Armando is left standing in midstream. After collecting Armando and negotiating 6 rapids, it is after 4 pm and we are running out of daylight. We find a protected campsite on river left and congratulate ourselves for completing the hardest day on the river.

Day 3
The temperature drops to 35 degrees F during the night. After paddling ½ mile, we stop for a side-hike along one of the trails near the Verde. The Falcon book Ruins Seldom Seen, describes a hike to some Indian ruins on Towel Creek. We switch to hiking boots and proceed 2 miles along trail 67 past an old shack to a viewpoint where we can see the ruins further up in a canyon. Since it is getting late, we turn around here. Back at the river, we run 5 rapids. Bushman, a class 3 is one of our best runs. We scout some of the rapids from the boats, while others require us to get out and push. Everything is easy after yesterday. An eagle flies by our fine campsite, where we have our first fire. I try out my technique of supplying continuous hot water in camp by placing a small stainless steel canister full of water in the coals of the fire.

Day 4
There is ice in our water bottles in the morning. We wait for the sun before breaking camp. The rapids are easy today but our map points out many "tree hazards". The major attraction today is Verde Hot Springs where we soak in a delightful pool. This is the remains of a popular resort and hotel built in the late 1920's. The walls around the pool are decorated with artistically painted cartoons. The only visitors now are the occasional boater or people who drive the rough road from the East. Close by is the abandoned Childs Power Plant next to a maintained campground and an access point for the river. In 1909, water was pumped from this historic hydroelectric power plant to the Jerome copper mine, many miles away. Our camp on river left is recognizable because of the remains of a 4-foot diameter pipe nearby.

Day 5
This is our coldest night and paddling day. We line Dog's Foot Rapid to avoid a big rock in the main channel. We camp early where the E. Verde River joins the main Verde. Today's hike follows Forest Trail 11 south to a saddle where we have views of the river in both directions as it makes a big turn. We also "discover" the remains of some ruins on top of a hill. We meet Dexter Allan, the Verde River Ranger, who is patrolling the river with 2 other rangers in 2 inflatables and an open canoe. They are the only people we see on the river during our trip.

Day 6
Houston Creek is just around the bend. This is the fourth stream we have passed that adds water to the main Verde since the start of the float. (They are West Clear Creek, Fossel Creek, E. Verde River, and Houston Creek). Squaw Butte, a high landmark that can be seen for miles, is just down river. Today is a mellow paddling day with one class 3, which is a good spot to take action photos. Fresh water is available at Warm Springs at the rivers edge where the water is warm but unfortunately there is no place to soak. Camp is at Canyon Creek, which requires a short carry to a nice camping area near a cliff. Armando and I do another afternoon hike, which reaches a high point with great views up and down the river. We think we hear a javalena or wild pig during the night.

Day 7
We have lots of tree hazards and sharp turns along reed-lined banks. Camp is at the foot of Red Creek rapid across from a rough road covered with ATV tracks. Lots of time is spent photographing the spectacular saguaro cacti that line the hillsides.

Day 8
The rapids are easy and are scouted from the water. But the tree and reed hazards are increasing. In mid-morning, Armando and I run the SOAR into a reed choked bank and capsize. We don't lose anything but it takes time to change wet clothing and check our gear. It is wise to prepare for immersion in the Verde! Our big yellow York box, which we use for food is water resistant, not waterproof. We were lucky that everything inside was enclosed in plastic since it leaked some water. All the named rapids on our river map are finished. Our next major landmark is Sheep Bridge, a 4-foot wide historic suspension bridge high above the river. An access road is visible and some river runners use this as a take-out. However, we plan to continue to Ocotillo Boat Ramp about 10 miles further. We stop at the hot springs at Sheep Bridge, which consist of an old commercial fiberglass hot tub that is set in the mud among the reeds with a pipe of hot water flowing into it. Two hot springs on a river trip is pretty good! Our last camp is just below the bridge.

Day 9
Our last day is an easy paddle through a meandering stream that has cut into the dry Ocotillo Reservoir. After a couple of tree hazards at the very beginning of the day, we find a fast current and float the last 10-mile stretch of class-1 water in 2 1/2 hours. At the finish, we land upstream of the non-operational boat ramp and carry our gear about 100 yards on a rough trail through a marsh. But it is not a difficult take-out. We drive the 3-4 hours back to Camp Verde, sort gear, and start driving home. It has been a great river trip in an uncrowded setting.

RAPIDS AND CAMPS
The following table describes the rapids and campsites along the river. I have additional data in my notes. Contact me directly if you are interested in running the river and want more information. Note that the river map has mile 0 at Beasley Flat, which is 10 miles downstream from the put-in near Verde Ranger Station in the town of Camp Verde. Our total paddling distance was therefore 70 miles.

PLANNING
(1) Information about the Verde River can be found on the web. Check out the Coconino National Forest website at http://www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino/recreation/red_rock/verde-river-boat.shtml Also on this website is a link to The Boaters Guide to the Verde River. This is an excellent river map and is really the only publication you need to run the Verde. It lists all the rapids, shows potential campsites, and describes places of interest. It can be printed from the website for free. Finding places to camp is easy on this river.

(2) The Verde River Office in Coconino National Forest is located several miles north of Camp Verde at Beaver Creek (928-203-7503). Dexter Allan, the Verde River Ranger was very helpful. Also helpful was Don Sullivan, a forest service ranger stationed in Globe, Arizona (928-402-6236). Don and Dexter were instrumental in preparing the excellent river guide mentioned above.

(3) The Verde Ranger Station in Prescott National Forest (928-567-4121) is located across the street from the put-in. They do not administer river activities. I asked them about parking my car in the picnic area at the put-in and was told it was OK. However, the Camp Verde Police saw my car there for several days, became concerned, and ended up tracing it to my address in California. My wife was awakened in the middle of the night by a Redondo Beach policeman inquiring about me. Were we the first people to run the river and leave a car in Camp Verde? Next time I will ask if I can park at the ranger station.

(4) Water flow rates for the Verde can be found at http://waterdata.usgs.gov/az/nwis/uv?09506000 We liked running the river at the flows we encountered which were 180-200 cfs. You need at least 150 cfs. At higher flows, it will be more challenging.

(5) It can be cold in Northern Arizona in winter, so come prepared with sufficient gear to stay warm. Wetsuits are appropriate for some of the river. We had 1 capsize and 3 other short swims during our trip. Our nighttime temperatures ranged from 28 to 50 degrees over our 8-night stay. You should be self-sufficient. Do not expect to get help in an emergency, although cell phones did work occasionally. We saw campers at Childs Powerhouse and Sheeps Bridge but other than that, we saw no one except for the ranger patrol. It is possible to arrange a car shuttle with local people. Firepans and porta potties are required. The road to Ocotillo Boat Ramp is dirt and may require high clearance vehicles at times. You should call and check.

(6) Other useful maps
- Tonto National Forest map
- Coconino National Forest map
- Arizona recreation map called "Phoenix" which shows the roads to the start and finish.