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JOURNAL NOTES
MINERAL KING LOOP SKI TOUR
by
Rich Henke
The Mineral King ski trip is history! After talking about this
trip for at least 5 years, it is finished. For years we had hoped
that there would be a way to avoid the 6-mile walk along the gated
road that leads to Mineral King. Although the road is snow free
late in the spring, Sequoia National Park does not normally open
the road to vehicles until around Memorial Day and if you wait that
late, there is usually not enough snow to ski.
On 23 April 2004, four of us met at the locked gate, about a mile
before the Atwell Mill Ranger Station. It had taken over an hour
to drive the last 20 miles or so from the Mineral King road intersection
with Route 198. Karen Davis, John Langbein, Steve Cochran, and I
planned a 4-day loop going counterclockwise over Farewell Gap, Shotgun
Pass, and Sawtooth Pass. Most of the route can be seen on the Mineral
King 15 min quad map. The eastern portion is visible on the Kern
Peak map.
DAY 1 - Locked gate (6,500 ft) to South of Farewell Gap
(9,700 ft)
We walked about 6 miles to the Mineral King Guard Station. One more
mile of walking got us to the end of the paved road at 7,500 ft
where we could see Farewell Gap to the south. Skiable snow was reached
at 8,000 ft and conditions were good all the way to the pass (10,500
ft). The best ski line was along the snow-covered stream west of
the summer trail. The sun was setting as we had our first of many
great descents on this trip. We camped at a large flat area below
the pass, just west of Bullfrog lakes.
DAY 2 - South of Farewell Gap (9,700 ft) to North of Rattlesnake
Creek (10,800 ft)
We had 2 options. A steep climb to the east past Bullfrog Lakes
led to a pass at 11,600 feet that would connect us directly to Rattlesnake
Creek. We could also continue south, dropping to below 9,000 feet,
counter around a ridge, and head north over Shotgun Pass at 11,500
feet to reach the same destination. We choose the latter which in
retrospect was a mistake. The snow disappeared quickly and we had
to carry our skis about 3 miles. Luckily the summer trail was easily
followed. Shotgun Pass was a straightforward ski ascent. From the
top, we could see Mt Whitney and Mt. Williamson across the Kern
River Canyon to the Northeast. To the south, much lower terrain
was visible for miles. This is really the edge of the High Sierra!
The north side of Shotgun Pass provided great corn snow as we descended
1400 feet to Rattlesnake Creek. A short climb brought us to a pleasant
campsite with water and a view.
DAY 3 - North of Rattlesnake Creek (10,800 ft) to Columbine
Lake (11,000 ft)
We had early sun and a beautiful day. By 9 am we were skiing toward
Little Claire Lake but almost dropped too low. Luckily John's map
reading skills kept us from skiing back down into the Rattlesnake
Creek drainage. We had a fast icy descent to Little Claire Lake
and then an excellent steep descent to Soda Creek. Part way down,
John attempted a turn on an icy spot in the shade. He slipped and
slid down about 150 feet before coming to a stop against a tree.
He had a couple of minor scrapes but we were concerned that his
back was bothering him. We offloaded some of his gear and continued
on. He was able to finish the trip OK. We stayed on our skis for
several miles as we descended Soda Creek. Below 9000 feet, we had
to carry our skis but found the summer trail and followed it to
the west into the Lost Creek drainage. We soon were skiing and had
good snow all the way to Sawtooth Pass. It was late by the time
we approached Columbine Lake. A steep ascent was required to get
to the lake and we didn't arrive at camp until 7 pm. We camped next
to the lake and were able to chop a small hole for water. It was
the 3rd straight night that we had water, one of the real advantages
of late spring trips.
DAY 4 - Columbine Lake (11,000 ft) to Locked Gate (6,500
ft)
Again, we had early sun but we took our time to let the snow on
Sawtooth Pass soften up some. It was quite cold during the night;
18 degrees in our tent. The route over the pass went directly over
a cornice. I angled up to the right of the cornice and climbed on
rock for the last 100 feet. The others took a line further north
and climbed over a slightly higher pass staying on the snow all
the way. We had to remove our skis and kick steps. The snow was
hard enough to get our attention and it almost required an ice ax.
From the top, we could see Glacier Pass below us to the west. Taking
a long break, we let the snow soften some more and then had 3000
feet of wonderful skiing before the snow finally gave out about
1000 feet above the end of the road. After walking the trail to
the road, we repeated the 7 miles of walking to our cars. Luckily,
we got a ride for the last mile or so from a person who had a cabin
at Silver City (a small picturesque village about 3 miles from Mineral
King). He had a key to the gate. Having friends in Silver City would
be very nice if we ever want to repeat this trip! We arrived back
at the cars at 5.40pm.
SUMMARY - We estimated that we covered around 40 miles including
the walk along the road. There was considerable elevation gain -
about 9,000 vertical feet. It was a late spring tour and we went
light. Steve and I averaged about 31 pounds at the start including
full water bottles. We shared a Bibler tent while John and Karen
were independent of us in an Integral Designs tent. There was no
avalanche risk at this time of the snow year. Due to a mistake,
I had brought only one cartridge for the hanging Camping Gaz stove
that Steve and I used. We thought that we would have to "beg
hot water" from John and Karen but we managed to get 6 man-days
out of the 7 3/4 oz cartridge. Further proof that the hanging stove
system is the most fuel-efficient setup that one can use.
An alternate tour would avoid dropping low at the southern and eastern
parts of the loop. In the 1st edition of "Backcountry Skiing
in the High Sierra", Moynier talks about skiing Bullfrog Pass
(11,600 ft) and it also appears feasible to cross the crest from
Amphitheater Lake to Crystal Lake. Another possibility is the class-3
pass between Sawtooth Peak and Needham Mountain. You will need to
review the maps to make sense out of these alternatives. Bring ice
axes for those deviations and plan to do some climbing. With more
time, the upper bowls east of Franklin Pass looked inviting for
skiing.
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