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Visiting Bhutan - The Kingdom
of the Dragon - 2004/2005
by Rich Henke
In October 2004, I organized a 2-week trip to Bhutan. Our group
of 8 friends opted for a tour emphazing culture, festivals, and
dayhikes. The experience was so enjoyable that I returned again
in October 2005 to repeat almost the same itinerary for another
group of 12 people.
For both trips, Hishey Tshering was our guide and made all the arrangements
in Bhutan. Hishey owns his own company, Bhutan Heritage Travels,
and has been running Bhutan trips of all types for many years. He
is personable, good-natured, well-informed, and takes excellent
care of his clients. An avid naturalist and birder, Hishey is very
enthusiastic about sharing the nature and culture of his country
with visitors. A visit to his family farm near Paro for a lunch
prepared by his family was a trip highlight! So was saying hello
to his brother - a pilot - in the cockpit of the flight from Bangkok
to Bhutan.
I recommend Hishey very highly for anyone contemplating a Bhutan
trip. You can contact him directly through his website at www.heritagetours.com.bt.
Hishey's tours are as good as they come. His goal is that you will
arrive as a guest and depart as a friend.
Although a Bhutan visit is quite expensive due to government imposed
minimum daily fees, you can save a lot of money by working directly
with Hishey rather than using a company outside of Bhutan. You need
to arrange your travel to Bangkok and Hishey will take it from there.
He offers both standard and personalized tours of Bhutan, which
allows you to tailor your trip to the number of people you have
in your group for the time period you choose. Surcharges are imposed
for small groups of 1 or 2 people. Trekking is quite popular in
Bhutan and it is possible to combine a cultural tour with trekking.
For trekkers who want a real challenge, the 24-day Snowman trek
is said to be the most difficult commercial trek in the world. Note
that trekkers and hotel-based travelers will pay the same daily
fees.
I have included below the 14-night itinerary (prepared and written
by Hishey), that we used in 2005. It is very representative for
a cultural tour but your itinerary will vary depending upon when
you visit. The basic Bhutan cultural tour is usually a journey from
the airport in the western part of Bhutan to the East and back again
along one of the few roads in this very mountainous country. The
itinerary is arranged to make certain that you are at the right
place for the festivals and to minimize the time you spend in transport.
If you look through the following write-up, I think you will have
a good feel of what a Bhutan trip is like. You are welcome to contact
me if you have other questions.
Expedition to the Mystical Dragon
Kingdom
15 Days (11 October - 25 October 2005)
by Hishey Tshering
Introduction
High in the mysterious and majestic eastern Himalayas, nestled
between Tibet and India, lies the small Kingdom of Bhutan, increasingly
renowned as one of the Earth's last precious unspoiled spots. In
this magical place, an intact Buddhist culture is integrated into
every aspect of daily life, and spectacular mountain scenery provides
a backdrop to pristine forests and picturesque valleys. The breathtaking
landscape is dotted with fluttering prayer flags, colorful farmhouses
amidst terraced fields, and impressive monasteries clinging to impossible
cliffs.
Until recently, Bhutan's remoteness, steep terrain, and tightly
controlled tourism have ensured that its incredible beauty and fascinating
people remained a quiet secret known only to a few. Bhutan was closed
to outsiders until 1960; its first roads were built in 1969; and
no tourists were permitted until 1974. Even today, one is more likely
to encounter red-robed monks than a group of foreigners. Amidst
cultural and political upheavals elsewhere in the region, Bhutan
is the only remaining intact Himalayan Buddhist kingdom.
This shining cultural gem is also a bird-watcher's paradise. Its
moist climate and wide altitudinal range-- from sub-tropical lowlands
to arctic-like mountain peaks-- provide an array of climatic conditions
and habitats, from tropical jungles to temperate forests and tundra
that support over 600 bird species. They include some of the most
exotic and rare species in the eastern Himalayas. Ten species of
birds that are in danger of extinction are found in Bhutan, including
the Black-necked Crane, which traditionally winters in the valleys
of Phobjikha and Bomdeling. The diversity of bird life in Bhutan
is accentuated by the migrations of hundreds of species between
breeding grounds across a vast expanse of central Asia and wintering
areas on the subcontinent of India.
Over 70 percent of the country is forested, and unlike other Himalayan
countries, most of Bhutan's original forest remains intact. The
Buddhist philosophy of respect for all living things, and a progressive
government approach to development in which the preservation of
the environment and the promotion of Bhutan's unique culture and
traditions are key elements, have maintained a healthy environment
where wildlife flourishes. As a result, Bhutan lies in an area designated
as one of the world's biodiversity hotspots.
In addition to having an astonishing diversity of birdlife in a
country no larger than Switzerland, Bhutan is home to at least 165
species of mammals, including Golden Langur, Leopard, Rhinoceros
and Elephant in the lowlands; Red Panda, Himalayan Black Bear and
Musk Deer in the middle-elevation forests; and Snow Leopard and
Takin on alpine meadows. Tigers might be found anywhere from the
bases of the foothills to above tree line. The diversity of Bhutan's
flora is no less impressive. More than 600 orchid species (including
at least 50 that are endemic), 46 species of rhododendrons (4 endemic),
and more than 300 species of medicinal plants are found within its
borders.
During our expedition we will see a wide variety of wildflowers,
bird life, and scenic wonders. We will also be witnessing two religious
festivals. These festivals are held in honor of Guru Padmasambhava.
During these festivals you will witness masked and folk dances performed
by both the monks as well as by laymen. It is believed that by attending
such a festival, one shall gain merit. During these festivals the
Bhutanese wear their finest fabrics and is therefore a great occasion
to see the Kingdom's intricate textiles in full grandeur.
Our walks and drives will take us through virgin forests, across
high open pastures, and to Bhutan's most extensive high-elevation
wetland, as well as to mountain villages and monasteries.
Throughout the trip we will see and occasionally stop to visit the
impressive goembas (monasteries), dzongs (the monastery/fortresses
that serve as Bhutan's administrative and religious centers), lhakhangs
(temples), and chortens (stupas) that are important features
of Bhutan's religion and culture, both past and present. We will
have opportunities to examine and collect traditional Bhutanese
arts and crafts, which represent an exciting and vital aspect of
Bhutan's living heritage, and which reflect Bhutan's spiritual and
intellectual life. Surrounding us at every turn will be examples
of Bhutan's distinctive architecture with its traditional shapes,
colorful patterns, outrageous "motifs," and an unmatched
combination of engineering skill and aesthetic beauty.
Through the services of professional guides, this expedition will
provide a balanced taste of Bhutan's culture and natural history.
The Program
Day 1 - Tuesday 11 October 2005
Arrival and Paro Sightseeing
The flight from Bangkok to Paro generally leaves early in the morning
(timing to be confirmed) - (sorry about that-- but Bhutan is worth
the effort). The flight will make a brief stop at Calcutta, India,
and will arrive in Paro, Bhutan at about 10:35.
Walking to the terminal, you will immediately be struck by the
transparent purity of the air and the absence of noise-- very welcome
changes from Bangkok. After Immigration and Customs formalities
(which can take a while), you'll be welcomed by your local host
and guide of Bhutan Heritage Travels, and will be driven to your
hotel. After lunch we will visit the National Museum,
which is an ideal introduction to Bhutan, as during the course of
your journey you will notice how the Kingdom has so successfully
preserved much of its ancient culture as displayed in the museum.
The National Museum of Bhutan is housed in an old watchtower (the
Ta Dzong) overlooking the Paro Dzong. Its exhibits include
a spectacular collection of thangkhas (religious scroll paintings)
ancient and modern, a display of antique weapons and shields (many
captured during various unsuccessful Tibetan invasions), a colorful
costume collection, and also collections of prehistoric artifacts,
jewelry, decorative arts, and old and new traditional household
objects. The natural history section includes mounts of snow leopard,
takin and some of Bhutan's rarer birds. On the top floor is a display
of Bhutan's national stamp collection. Cameras are not permitted
inside the museum.
Next we'll visit Paro Ringpung Dzong, where parts
of the film "The Little Buddha" were shot. Paro's Dzong
is quite different than those that you'll see during the course
of your trip. It's not as extravagantly decorated as Punakha, nor
is it as spectacularly sited or as massively sculptural as Trongsa.
Rather, its setting, and its spacious upper courtyard and prayer
halls, are filled with a simple, quiet, and stately spiritual power.
After visiting the Dzong we'll walk down to cross the ancient cantilever
bridge over the Paro Chhu. If there's time, we'll explore Paro town
for a while before we return to our hotel.
Overnight Paro in Hotel
Day 2 - Wednesday 12 October 2005
Excursion to Taktsang Monastery
After breakfast we shall hike to Taktsang Monastery.
The trip is an uphill walk of about 2 hours. We will be walking
firstly through pine forests and as we get higher the vegetation
consists mainly of Oak.
Taktsang is Bhutan's most famous monastery and one of the most
venerated religious sites in the Himalayas. The complex is perched
on the side of a cliff 2,950 feet above the floor of the Paro valley.
Taktsang, which means Tiger's Lair, is so-called because Guru
Rimpoche (also known as Padma Sambava), who brought Buddhism
to Bhutan, came to the site in a miraculous manner-flying on the
back of a tigress. On April 19, 1998, a fire of unknown origin destroyed
the main structure of Taktsang, but it has since been rebuilt to
its original splendor. After we return to the road point we shall
drive farther north to the end of the road and the ruins of Drukgyel
Dzong. This Dzong was built in 1649 in a location chosen
because it controlled the main route from Tibet. The Dzong was named
Druk (Bhutanese) gyel (victory) to commemorate the
victory of Bhutan over Tibetan invaders in 1644. A photograph of
it was featured in the first National Geographic article about Bhutan,
written by John Claude White and published in 1914. The Dzong was
used as an administrative center until 1951, when a fire caused
by a butter lamp destroyed it. We will also visit a house built
around a cave at the base of the Dzong, which houses some of the
artifacts saved from the Dzong. Next we shall visit Kyichu
Lhakhang, built in the 7th century and one of the oldest
temples in Bhutan.
Overnight Paro in Hotel
Day 3 - Thursday 13 October 2004
Paro - Thimphu; Thimphu Sightseeng
After breakfast we leave Paro and drive to Thimphu. Thimphu, the
capital town of Bhutan, and the center of government, religion and
commerce, is a lively place, an interesting combination of tradition
and modernity. Home to civil servants, expatriates and the monk
body, Thimphu maintains a strong national character in its architectural
style.
In the morning we will visit the bank and the adjacent
Post Office to stock up on Bhutan's gorgeous stamps.
Next we will visit the recently opened, and extremely well-presented,
National Textile Museum. It overflows with luxurious
and intricate garments and other textiles, many donated by the Royal
Family.
After lunch, we'll visit the Handicrafts Emporium,
a large government-operated shop with a wide selection of fairly-priced
craft items including textiles (some of which would fit in with
the museum's collection), carvings, turned wood bowls and cups,
baskets, jewelry, carpets, etc.
This afternoon we'll also visit the National Institute for
Zorig Chusum (commonly called "the Painting School")
where young people learn the intricate skills of many of Bhutan's
thirteen traditional crafts (the zorig chusum). There are
several small shops close by that sells the students' work at very
reasonable prices.
Later we shall drive to the Takin Park to
see the National animal. The Takin is a strange looking animal and
George Schaller, the famous biologist called the Takin, a beestung
moose.
In the evening you will have some free time to wander around Thimphu
City on your own.
Overnight Thimphu in Hotel
Day 4 - Friday 14 October 2005
Thimphu sightseeing
In the morning we shall dive north of Thimphu and hike to Cheri
Gompa, a monastery founded in 1620 by Shabdrung Ngawang
Namgyal, the great unifier of Bhutan. At the end of the road
point is a beautiful traditional wooded bridge and the trail to
Cheri Gompa begins here. The trail is all uphill and it goes through
some pristine oak forest. There is plenty of good birding along
the trail, and a good chance of seeing Common Goral (a wild
mountain goat-- Nemorhaedus goral).
After we return to Thimphu, we shall visit the Folk Heritage
Museum. It provides a first-class, and intimate, introduction
to the stuff of traditional life in rural Bhutan. We shall also
visit the National Library, which was established
in the late 1960s primarily to conserve the literary treasures,
which form a significant part of Bhutan's cultural heritage. It
now houses an extensive collection of Buddhist literature mostly
in block-printed format, with some works several hundred years old.
This collection, known as the Choekey Collection, mainly comprises
Buddhist literature written in Choekey, the religious script of
Northern Buddhism, but also includes works written in Tibetan and
in Dzongkha, Bhutan's national language. There is also a small Foreign
Books Collection, stock of which mainly comprises works written
in English, with subject interest on Buddhist studies, Bhutan, the
Himalayan region and neighboring countries. A recent addition to
the National Library is the World's largest book.
Overnight Thimphu in Hotel
Day 5 - Saturday 15 October 2005
Thimphu-Punakha
In the morning we shall visit the weekend market. As super markets
are uncommon in Bhutan, most of the residents of Thimphu buy their
supplies for the week at the weekend market. The rural communities
bring their produce here and hence the market provides an excellent
opportunity to see Bhutanese of all walks of life as well as the
expatriate community of Bhutan. Besides, vegetables, meat, rice,
fruits, etc., there is also a section at the market that sells handicraft
items.
Later we shall depart Thimphu and drive towards Punakha. Our first
stop will be at Dochu La (La = Pass) (10299
ft), about 13 miles from Thimphu. The scenery at the pass is simply
breathtaking. There are over 100 stupas built on an
oval shaped ridge. On a clear day, the pass offers an incredible
view of Bhutan's Himalayas, including Gangkhar Phuensum (24734
ft), the world's highest unclimbed peak. A little below the pass
is a cafeteria, where we shall stop for lunch.
After lunch we continue driving to Punakha. The road descends through
a temperate broadleaved forest where rhododendrons and magnolias
bloom in profusion during March-April (and we hope to find orchids
in bloom), and then through a semi-tropical zone where banana and
orange trees, and cactuses, are found in abundance. The road to
Punakha turns left at a place called Lobeysa. We shall stop
a little further from here and hike to Chimi Lhakhang,
also known as the fertility temple. Later continue driving to your
hotel in Punakha.
Overnight Punakha in Hotel.
Day 6 - Sunday 16 October 2005
Punakha-Trongsa
In the morning we shall visit the majestic Punakha Dzong, one of
the most important Dzongs of Bhutan. It is built at the confluence
of two rivers and is the home to the Central Monastic body during
the milder winter months.
After the visit to the Dzong we shall drive to the historic valley
of Trongsa, which is located exactly in the center of Bhutan. During
this drive we will pass through the town of Wangduephordrang.
About twenty minutes of diving along relatively level road from
the town, the road climbs up along the western slopes of the Black
Mountains until we cross the Pele La (11218 ft), and start
down into central Bhutan. The sweeping pastures of dwarf bamboo
just beyond the pass will offer us our trip's best chance to see
yaks and their herders. A few miles further down the road lies the
very picturesque village of Rukubji, built on the head of
a snake-shaped ridge carpeted in bright-yellow-blooming mustard.
A short while later we'll pass the impressive Nepali-style Chendebji
Chorten, where we shall stop briefly. During most of the morning's
drive we'll have inspiring cross-valley views of the trackless old-growth
forests on the steep north-facing slopes of the Black Mountains.
The recent Bhutanese film "Travelers and Magicians" was
shot along this road.
Nearly an hour before we reach there on the winding road, we'll
have our first glimpses of the Trongsa Dzong across
the breathtaking depths of the Mangde Chhu gorge. Built atop the
crest of a narrow ridge, it is, without doubt, the most spectacularly
sited dzong in all of Bhutan. It's perched so far above the river
that the clouds frequently float below it. Trongsa lies in the middle
of Bhutan, and in times past, all east-to-west traffic passed through
the dzong. Because the tolls he could collect were a substantial
steady income, the Trongsa Penlop (governor), who commanded
the dzong and administered the surrounding district, was always
a force to be reckoned with. The dzong was much damaged by an earthquake
in 1897, and much of what we see today dates to the rebuilding undertaken
by Jigme Namgyal, the then Trongsa Penlop, and the
father of Ugyen Wangchuck, who was elected the first king
of Bhutan in 1907. Because the Trongsa Dzong is built on a very
narrow ridge, its courtyards are much less spacious than those of
the other dzongs (at Punakha and Paro), and one is more conscious
of the buildings' thick and battered walls, and their sculptural
forms. It is every bit as impressive from inside as from outside.
Overnight Hotel in Trongsa
Day 7 - Monday 17 October 2005
Golden Langurs - Drive to Bumthang
In the morning we shall visit the Trongsa Dzong, after which we
shall drive along the road towards Zhemgang with the hope of seeing
the rare Golden Langurs (Trachypithecus geei).
The drive is very scenic and also the best place to photograph terraced
fields. After lunch at Trongsa, we shall drive to the sacred
valley of Bumthang. Above Trongsa the road climbs through many switchbacks,
then it passes through a misty forest of Silver Firs and bamboo
on the way to Yotong La (11234 ft). Soon after the pass,
the forest changes to the Blue Pines characteristic of Bumthang.
After about 30 minutes of driving through the pine forest, we will
arrive at Gyetsa, at the upper end of the Chhume Valley--
the first of Bumthang's four major valleys. After driving the length
of the Chhume valley, we'll arrive at Zungney in the Chumey
valley where there is a small shop that engages local girls to weave
yathra-- Bumthang's famous hand-spun, hand-woven, and boldly
patterned woolen cloth. We will be visiting this area in the coming
days when we visit the festival at the Prakar Monastery, which is
just across this village.
A little further from here we'll cross an easy pass (Kiki La,
9381 ft), and come into the Choskhor Valley, the main valley
of Bumthang. We will be staying in Jakar town (elevation
8462 ft) below the Dzong, which gave the town its name, for three
nights. "Ja" means bird in Dzongkha, and "kar"
means white. When sites for a Bumthang dzong were being considered,
an auspicious omen sealed the decision. A white bird-- now believed
to have been a Black-necked Crane-- landed at the site where the
Jakar Dzong now stands.
Overnight Jakar in Hotel, where we shall be staying for the 4 nights
Day 8,9,10 - Tuesday 18 October; Wednesday
19 October & Thursday 20 October 2005
Jambay Lhakhang Drup and Prakar Tsechu
During the next three days we will be witnessing the Jambay
Lhakhang Drup. In between we will also drive back to Zungney
to witness the Prakar Tsechu. The Jambay Lhakhang
Drup takes place at the Jambay Lhakhang (temple), which was
built in the 7th Century and is one of the oldest temples in Bhutan.
Bhutan is a country of festivals. The most important are the religious
dance festivals, known as Tshechus, which are held
in different districts, at specific times during the year. The Tshechus
are celebrated for three to five days. These festivals, which are
held in honor of Guru Rimpoche, commemorate his great deeds.
Dances with deep religious significance, especially in the tantric
context, are performed.
The Tshechus are important religious festivals and it is
believed that by attending them one gains merits and blessings.
They are not sombre formal religious affairs, but occasions to get
together, renew acquaintances, and make merry. The atsaras
(traditional clowns of the Tshechu) add color and merriment
to the festival by their bawdy antics. Tshechus attract crowds that
sometimes come from the remotest of villages. In a swirl of color
and noise, the gods and demons of Buddhist mythology come to life.
Rare masked and sword dances and other rituals are performed in
the courtyards and temples of the Dzongs during festivals.
The origin of most of the dances can be traced beyond the Middle
Ages and are only performed once or twice a year. Each dance has
its own significance and is performed by monks and villagers.
The most popular festivals for tourists are those held in Paro
during spring, and those at Thimphu and Bumthang in autumn. The
colorful ceremonies, religious theatre and exorcism ritual, are
the most striking testimonies to the deep-rooted faith of Bhutan's
society.
The valley of Bumthang is also considered as the cultural heartland
of Bhutan and hence has many temples. The valley also is very scenic
and has lots of places for day hikes. So in addition to attending
the festivals we shall visit some of the sacred sites as well as
hike/walk to remote villages.
Guru Rimpoche (also known as Padmasambava) introduced Buddhism
to Tibet and the Himalayas, including Bhutan. He is often thought
of as the second Buddha, and his image may appear more often in
Bhutanese art than even that of the Buddha himself. All of the places
where he is said to have visited and worked wonders on behalf of
the Buddhist faith are regarded as sacred. During the time we are
in Bumthang, we'll visit one of the most important of these, the
temple complex called Kurjey Lhakhang. Guru Rimpoche
was called to make his first visit to Bhutan to help the king of
Bumthang, whose soul had been taken by a local deity. After meditating
in a cave to gather his strength, the Guru outwitted and overpowered
the deity, who restored the king's soul, and who became a defender
of the Buddhist faith. A body (kur) imprint (jey)
was left on the rock where the Guru had meditated, and a temple
was built to enclose the entrance to the cave in 1652. Two other
temples were added during the 20th century. Three chortens
in the courtyard mark the cremation sites of Bhutan's first three
kings.
We shall also visit another important temple, Tamshing Lhakhang.
Founded by Pema Lingpa, the great treasure reveler, Tamshing has
religious paintings, which may be the oldest extant paintings in
Bhutan.
Depending on the time available we may visit either the Ura
or Tang Valley, both of which are very beautiful.
Overnight Jakar in Hotel
Day 11 - Friday 21 October 2005
Bumthang-Phobjikha
We will depart early and drive back along much of the same route
until the Pele la pass, from where we shall turn left towards the
enchanted valley of Phobjikha.
Phobjikha (9600 feet) is a designated conservation
area, which lies adjacent to Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park
(formerly called Black Mountain National Park). Because of the presence
of the large flock of Black-necked Cranes (Grus nigricollis)
that winters in the valley-- about 260 of them-- Phobjikha is one
of the most important wildlife preserves in Bhutan. The first cranes
arrive from Tibet in late October, and we should be extremely lucky
if they arrive by this time. In the past, the earliest cranes arrived
only around 23rd October. Even without the cranes, the valley is
extremely beautiful.
Overnight Phobjikha in Hotel.
Day 12 - Saturday 22 October 2005
Day hike around Phobjikha Valley
After breakfast we shall visit the Royal Society for the Protection
of Nature's (RSPN) attractive new Observation and Education
Center. The center has artful and effective educational
displays about the valley and its cranes, a small showroom, which
sells weavings made by local women, and a great view of the marshland--
and its cranes? At the center, if you wish we could organize a short
documentary on the Black-necked cranes. From the Center we will
drive to Gangtey Gompa, a 15th century monastery that
is currently undergoing a massive renovation work. From here we
will hike around a beautiful nature trail, which will take us around
the marshland.
Overnight Phobjikha in Hotel.
Day 13 - Sunday 23 October 2005
Today we shall backtrack to Thimphu.
Overnight Thimphu in Hotel
Day 14 - Monday 24 October 2005
Thimphu Shopping - Paro farewell party
In the morning a tour of a handmade paper workshop
to see how Bhutan's unique traditional paper is made with pulp derived
from the daphne bush is a possibility. There is a wide variety of
patterned paper available in their small gift shop. The rest of
the morning may be spent on souvenir shopping etc. Later we shall
drive to Paro for the night. In the evening we shall visit the family
home of your local host for a farewell party.
Overnight Paro in Hotel.
Day 15 - Tuesday 25 October 2005
Drive to airport for onward flight to Bangkok
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